What is the best duck hunting gun??
Humm.. I have just start duck hunting and am using an older Remington 1100. I want to buy a new gun for under $400. I would love for it to be semi-auto shotgun if possible. I have heard Charles Daly's are pretty good and so is the price.
http://www.boytharness.com/duckguns.htm
Location
Location is the single most important aspect of hunting waterfowl.
In order to kill any number of ducks consistently you need a good spot. Even the best duck hunter will not kill many ducks in a bad spot.
To find a good spot you can either scout on your own or ask around but usually a combination of the two works best. So go find a good place to hunt and kill some ducks.
Equipment
Once you've found a good place to set up you're only about 3/4 of the way out of the woods. You still need to have the right stuff to get the fowl in nice and tight. Plus having all the trinkets and equipment of waterfowling is a good portion of the fun, and a great conversation piece in the blind.
There are several areas of equipment that are necessary to every waterfowl hunter: Guns, Shells, Decoys, Calls, some way to move around in the water, and some form of concealment.
Guns:
There is a lot of variety when it comes to duck guns. Basically it comes down to personal preference.
If you’re in the market for a new gun look around and ask people about their favorite duck gun. Then figure out what you want in terms of action, choke, etc.
Go to a store or gun show and try out the various makes and models of guns to see what fits you best and which is the most comfortable.
There is one thing you don't need to worry about trying to decide on and that is what gauge of shotgun to buy, that's a given, a twelve gauge is the only affective gun to hunts ducks with using steel shot. A ten gauge will do the job too but they are too bulky.
Shells:
In order to hunt ducks and geese legally you need to use non-toxic shot. There are three types of non-toxic shot available today steel, Bismuth, and Tungsten.
Steel has been around the longest but it is the worst performing.
There are a few tricks needed to kill waterfowl with steel shot. The two main things you need to know are to use big shot and buy fast shells.
Bismuth and Tungsten work very well (along the same lines as lead) but they are awfully expensive. One advantage of Bismuth is that you can shoot it through old guns that are not made to handle steel or tungsten.
Decoys:
There is an infinite variety of decoys available. They are made out of variety of materials: Cedar, Cork, Foam, and Plastic.
Cedar and Cork look beautiful and ride the water just like a real duck, however these are all handcrafted and fetch exuberant prices that the average hunter can not afford.
Foam and plastic will also draw ducks. Foam is better because it is solid and can absorb being shot, rides the water better, and are more easily repainted. Foam decoys are still fairly expensive.
Plastic decoys are cheap and still very realistic looking. Try mallard decoys that are all magnum size – these are slightly larger than life size so they have additional drawing power, but they are still close enough that ducks will swim into them on a regular basis.
Calls:
The sound of a good call is one of my favorite parts of duck hunting.
Every call sounds different depending on who blows it. So to find the right call for you, you probably need to try out a few, plus some days ducks will respond better too than others, so it is good to have a spare.
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Waterfowl Hunting Tips:
Use the sun, wind, and other natural features of the landscape to your benefit when setting up. Set up in short timber and shallow water whenever possible. Short timber because the ducks will come in lower and shallow water because that's where they want to feed.
Take time to not only practice your calling but to learn how ducks actually use different sounds. Then go back and practice.
Use effective camouflage that matches the terrain you hunt. We have many hunts where the ducks simply don't want to work to the decoys around the blind, so we get out of the blind and are able to set up where they naturally want to go. With good camouflage you can do it and still be successful.
Use a variety of duck species in your decoy spread and group those into family groups so that they are more recognizable from the air. Also set one group of ducks close to the blind. Ducks can pinpoint where a call is coming from and will get suspicious if they don't see the ducks making the sound.
On public ground work ducks hard, tight and fast. By working them tighter you can get them to commit quicker and stand less chance of losing them to other hunters.
Use a jerk cord on your decoys to add life to your spread. You don't have to connect but a few to create a wave action among your entire spread.
Wax the reeds on your calls. It will help the call repel moisture and keep the call from sticking. Also learn to blow from your throat and not our mouth. Not only will this give you a deeper, more realistic sound, but help you to not spit as much into the call and it won't stick as badly.
Place decoys so that the ducks last pass before landing places them where you want to shoot. You don't want the decoys to be placed so that circling ducks are looking down into your blind.
When giving a dog hand signals try wearing a white glove or sock on your hand so that he can see the signals clearly. Remember that they are color blind and a camo hand against a wooded background is very difficult for them to see.
Remember to respect ducks eye sight. In addition to wearing full camouflage, stay close to a tree or clump of grass. Also let one man lead the hunt and call the shots. Then he will be the only one looking up and moving. Everyone else should keep their heads down and stay still. Also never forget the importance of gloves and a headnet.
When working ducks to decoys, don't call while the ducks are coming. Instead let them look at the decoys and call as they pass to bring them back.
When hunting pintails use a strong decoy spread that features a lot of pintail drakes as well as mallards, widgeon, black ducks or any other ducks that are popular in your area. Also try working in your mallard call with your pintail whistle. But most importantly remember to be patient. They like to circle and come in slow. Give them time and don't try to rush them down and you will be successful.
If you have enough property, give your ducks a rest area or sanctuary from hunting. Pick out one or two of you prime feeding or roosting areas and simply don't allow any hunting in those areas. You will be amazed at how many ducks you will draw and hold in these areas and how much it will help the hunting on the rest of your property.
Keep decoys clean and in good working condition. Goose decoys often become dirty and loose their effectiveness. Also take the time to repaint old decoys to keep them realistic looking. They will be much more effective.
Often ducks can see ripples on the water better than they can see decoys. In addition to using jerk cords and motion decoys, try kicking and churning the water to bring in more ducks to your spread.
All ducks don't sound the same and neither should your duck calls. Vary the type of calls you carry from high to low pitch and raspy to smooth. Then if a particular call isn't working you can throw something different their direction. It just might make the difference in whether or not you limit out on those tough mornings.
One effective tip practiced by veteran shallow-water hunters is to keep the water muddy. These hunters wade around in their decoys and kick up mud to appear as though ducks have been feeding. A muddy zone in an area of clear water is easy for ducks flying overhead to spot, and it acts as a natural magnet to pull them down for a meal.
One good way to impart movement to a lifeless decoy spread is to rig a "shake line". Take a 6-foot bungee cord, and tie one end at the waterline to a stationary object on the far side of your decoy spread (tree, bush, stake driven into the mud, etc.) Next, tie a heavy nylon string (brown or black) to the other end of the bungee cord, and run it back to the blind. Then, attach several decoys at intervals along the line. When ducks are working, pull and release the line from inside the blind to make the decoys shake and turn like real ducks on the water. On calm days, this movement may mean the difference between having good shooting and getting no shots at all.
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